How to choose scuba regulators

How to choose Diving RegulatorsThe terminology is extensive, the combinations are endless-here will go through the basics, then give examples of different combinations by Scubapro Balanced/Unbalanced./RegulatorsThese Overbalanced diving terms can be confusing until you know what they mean-diving regulators perform worse as unbalanced scuba diving tank empties, and should be avoided at allbut the most basic diving.A diving regulator balanced will deliver the same amount of air to all the pressures and deep-diving regulators balanced are usually mid-range and are most common.A diving regulator overbalanced is what makes breathing easier as you go deeper-these are usually upwards of range.Yoke/A-Clamp vs. DINThese are two different mounting options to secure your regulator scuba diving to your tank. The decision will probably be based on which I'm diving-in the United Kingdom the clamp connection is more popular, while abroad the DIN connector is more typical.Technically speaking, the DIN is better as you will need this if you want to use a tank 300bar-A-Clamp is only good for 232bar, although this is by far the most common.If you buy a clip you can purchase a kit DIN (around ฃ25 -35) to convert it though, and there are even clamp adapters for DIN regs for a similar price.Coldwater scuba diving regulatorsWhen safe in the United Kingdom, especially at the dive sites in the hinterland that you need a regulator who can still run. The problem is that when the air passes by high pressure in the diving tank low pressure, you need to breathe, it cools very-sometimes leading to freeflow when in very cold water.There are two main ways companies diving regulator have come up with – one is to seal completely, the first being that some manufacturers do (Apeks for example), while others are more sophisticated-Scubapro TIS (thermal insulation system), for example, is particularly good. If you are diving cold water (about 5 degrees Celsius or below) then you really need to choose a good cold water regulator.Piston diaphragm piston vs Diving regulator RegulatorsA basis is very simple and improve performance in depth. Scuba regulators tend not piston. Diving diaphragm regulators are more complex, but are less likely to have mechanical problems as the insides are not exposed to the water, that may be the case with basic piston regulators.When you buy a new regulator of diving, don't worry about it-both provide performance perfectly fine for just about every recreational diving.Nitrox diving regulators ready RegulatorsMost are suitable for up to 40% nitrox without modification. If you require increased o2 content then you need to go for a nitrox dives-these are usually green to distinguish them and were properly cleaned. Another consideration is that you can use with Nitrox diving regulators.Real world examples-Scubapro MK25 first StagesScubapro-a great first step, this is a RAM based, overbalanced scuba diving Scubapro patented TIS that makes it suitable for cold water.SCUBAPRO MK11-a good midrange reg, this is a model of membrane overbalanced, even with TIS for cold water diving.SCUBAPRO MK2-a first step is very simple, basic and very compact piston. It comes with the TIS for cold water diving, but is unbalanced so really only suitable for first-time or occasional very divers as the primary regulator. This is a first step very popular pony bottles because it is cheap, and you don't need a reg balanced for a bottle of ponies.Real world examples-Scubapro second StagesScubapro X 650-Top of the range, this second stage Scubapro gives you a dive/pre-dive switch, a control system ALIVE to set levels of air flow, a few minor changes to make it easier to breathe-and looks really awesome! This is generally coupled with MK25 first stage.SCUBAPRO R395 – this is the workhorse of the Scubapro range, is great with any first stage and it is very (very) reliable and a popular choice for diving School Kit. It is equipped with a switch of dive/pre-dive to stop the free flow when you hit the water-however cold it can be!